An oil lamp is lighting from before electricity: kerosene sits in the reservoir, the wick draws it upward, and the glass chimney shields the flame from draughts. Some of our copper-bodied lamps are fully working, others are purely decorative, each product page states which.
The chimney does more than protect the flame. It creates a draught that pulls air past the burner, and that steady airflow is what turns a smoky yellow flame into a clean bright one. A lamp burning with its chimney off will soot the ceiling within the hour.
Working models come complete with wick, wick-adjustment knob and glass chimney, and burn on lamp oil. Decorative models have a sealed reservoir or no wick assembly at all; they are made for shelves, consoles and display cabinets. The antique patina is applied in our workshop, these are not genuine antiques.
Sizes run from 20 cm table lamps to 45 cm floor and hanging models. A flat wick of 10 mm gives roughly the light of a 10 watt bulb, warm and always moving, and a reservoir of about 200 ml burns for eight to ten hours at a moderate setting.
People buy these for three different reasons, and it helps to know which one applies to you. Some want light that still works when the power goes out, and they need a working lamp and a spare wick. Some want the object itself on a shelf. Some want it for a restaurant table or a photograph, where a small decorative model does the same job for much less money.
Stand the lamp on a level surface where it cannot be knocked over. A hot glass chimney cracks if it meets water, so let it cool fully before cleaning, then a damp cloth and a dry one are enough. Wipe the copper body with warm water and keep the wick housing dry. Empty the reservoir before long storage, because old oil gums the wick.